Author: Andrey Fedorov
RW3AH-WL7AP-9X0A-T2X-3D2AF
1999-2000-2001 2002 ©
All rights reserved.
The story of a trip to Oceania.
DXpedition K1B (“KING ONE BAKER”) Spring 2002
It’s a pity that we wasted our lives,
That we were pounded in the mortar of vanity.
O life! We didn’t have time to blink an eye
And, having achieved nothing, they left!
Rubaiyat. Omar Khayyam
Report from the El Niño Kingdom
The plane, “running” along the runway, soared up, began to rapidly gain altitude and reach the flight level. At these moments, all thoughts remained far on earth. The old experiences about what happened and what will happen remain there.
The meeting with an extraordinary dream excited the imagination. I could not even imagine that all this was possible and would become a reality. And ahead were rainy Frankfurt, sunny California, the warm islands of Fiji, the stuffy islands of Tuvalu, the hot ocean of the central Pacific and the amateur radio Mecca in Dayton, Ohio. But perhaps the most unexpected and amazing discovery for me was the uninhabited island of Baker Island. Quite tiny and unremarkable in the middle of the vast Pacific Ocean. Where the famous warm catastrophic El Nino current begins, and where all year round the daytime temperature is about plus 50 degrees, and the air humidity is almost 90%, which constantly fogs up the optics of photo and film cameras , as well as glasses on glasses.Where sharks, like children, playfully splash in the coastal waters of the island, and huge multi-million hordes of crabs eat all living things in their path, naively believing that no one except themselves is the owner of this island.
The real owners of this territory are the rare specimens of seabirds that have occupied the island and are almost impossible to count. This natural competition between wild crawling and flying creatures has continued on Baker for thousands of years.
Oceania is striking primarily for its size. Huge expanses of salt water around and almost untouched nature on numerous uninhabited islands and reefs. Fantastic underwater world. Tall and shaggy palm trees with coconuts and a cool divine drink inside, quenching thirst and giving strength and vigor, are of extraordinary beauty. Almost Bounty is a heavenly pleasure.
We fly over huge masses of white silence somewhere over Greenland. Height 11 km. Speed 970 km per hour. The temperature outside is minus 75 degrees. Below there are expanses of ice and snow. A funny thought haunts me; I want to climb into the refrigerator and “rest” a little there from the heat and sunburn received the day before in Tuvalu and Fiji. A picture of events appears before my eyes, of which there were a lot during these unforgettable almost 30 days.
April 11, 2002
(Kosovo, where my peacekeeping mission has been taking place for 3 years now).
An unexpected call to the office from Khran YT1AD with an invitation to participate in an amateur radio DX expedition. An interesting idea, I didn’t have to think long. I give my consent to the adventure. The composition of the expedition is constantly changing. There is no clear idea yet how many participants there will be and who exactly will go. However, the company is likely to be quite a mixed bag. The only thing that is clear is that there will be no more than 15 of us. The plan and route of the expedition is also clear – Fiji (3D2), Tuvalu (T2), Howland & Baker Islands (KH1). The task and purpose of the expedition is also clear – to give as many radio amateurs on the planet the opportunity to make radio contact with a rare uninhabited island in the Central Pacific Ocean. By the way, the last time radio amateurs visited Howland Island was in 1993
(AH1A). But none of our tribe of radio amateurs has ever landed on Baker. Were there any Russians there? I doubt it very much, although our great ancestors were responsible for the discovery of some exotic atolls in the Pacific Ocean.
April 15, 2002 (Pristina – Kosovo. Skopje – Macedonia).
Departure from Kosovo to Macedonia to obtain an American visa at the US Embassy. On the road, about 40 km from Pristina (the capital of the Province of Kosovo), KFOR (Military contingent of the international peacekeeping forces) blocked the road. Ahead is a terrible car accident – 4 corpses and piles of twisted iron that closely resemble cars. Over the past 11 years of service in the Russian Ministry of Emergency Situations, I have seen something different. I’m not used to it, but still… I have to turn back, make a big detour, driving along another road closer to the border. It leaves an unpleasant aftertaste in my soul.
On the Kosovo-Macedonia border, border guards equipped with helmets and armored vehicles with AK-47s at the ready slow down the car for about 5 hours. We come under fire using large-caliber weapons. Intensified shooting with short pauses can be heard in the mountains nearby. It’s understandable, there’s war all around. A sound reminiscent of a hammer hitting sheets of iron. No. This is not a Kalash, this is something more serious… “Have a fun day.”
In the evening I meet with Hrane. We first adjust the meeting place through a local VHF amateur repeater. It’s good that I took a VHF radio station with me. My mobile phone finally turned off for a trivial reason – different network, and no roaming. One of the local HAMs constantly helps and, in case of poor hearing, duplicates our conversations. The meeting takes place at a McDonald’s restaurant, of which there are only two in Skopje. After a strong handshake, I sit down in the Audio Store and go to a small restaurant. We meet there with two local radio amateurs, and after a short acquaintance, Hrane brings me to his home QTH. There we are cordially greeted by his wife Svetlana, who, by the way, is a QSL exchange specialist and a permanent assistant in Hrane’s numerous travels. The day ends with a wonderful dinner and the next morning we are ready and waiting at the US Embassy.
April 16, 2002 (Skopje – Macedonia).
In the morning we meet at the Mome Embassy (Z32ZM). Failures to obtain a visa have been haunting this guy since Khran’s previous expedition to Conway Reef (3D2CI). But, as we know, hope dies last. Americans are afraid that Mome will remain in the States, because… he is not married yet and there are delays in obtaining an entry visa. There are no problems for me. Earlier, in the 90s, I visited the USA twice. It was in Alaska.
After several hours of waiting and hoping, we both finally received the long-awaited visas and the corresponding marks in the passport. In the evening of the same day I return to Kosovo, but without any special adventures.
April 17, 2002 (Pristina – Kosovo).
There are only two days before the start of the adventure. I manage to book a vacation from work and book a ticket to Frankfurt via Vienna. Hrane has the rest of the tickets. As agreed, we meet on April 20 with part of the team at Frankfurt airport and fly to Los Angeles in the morning.
I manage to get a MINISAT-M satellite phone for rent from my colleagues from the mission in Kosovo, which I happily inform Hrana about during the next communication session with him. Voice and SMS communication works great. All that remains is to obtain Password and Login for sending E-mail messages. The guys promised to register an account tomorrow. The expedition plans Online-Log on the Internet. In this regard, I am forced to take with me a rather voluminous and weighty LAP-TOP Sony “FX390” with a DVD drive. During leisure hours on the way to the island, you will have the opportunity to enjoy DVD films. The same computer contains the necessary software from “DX4win” to “SkyFile” for transmitting messages via the Inmarsat satellite. Plus the “MixW” program from UT2UZ & UU9JDR, for which I owe to Sergey (TKS UA6JR/3). Igor (RA3AUU), who is also participating in this adventure, promises to take with him about 15 films on DVD.
April 18, 2002 (Kosovo).
1 day before the start of the trip. The vacation dates are already known. April 19 to May 23.
Just in case, I had to take an additional 10 days of vacation at my own expense. The move will be long. And here is another interesting news that leads us to some confusion. The Americans announced that the team would be able to land on the island only if each of us had new shoes and new equipment. In this case, a mandatory condition is that these shoes undergo special treatment; they must be in the freezer of the refrigerator for at least 24 hours before landing on the island. The same goes for all equipment, which must be completely new and sterile, but without refrigeration. In addition, among the team members there will be a representative of the American authorities, who will be landing on the island with us, and who will strictly observe the Rules of Conduct prescribed to us on the island. We later learned that it was Mr. Doug Forsell from the USFWS (American Federal Wildlife Service).
Almost everything was banned. For fishing in the island’s waters, for shark hunting. It was forbidden to touch birds, etc. Probably, they were only allowed to breathe and move around the island along a strictly defined route, and even then by air. In my opinion, such “protection” of wildlife is no less harmful to humans themselves, not to mention the environment. First of all, in the psychological aspect. But it was impossible to argue, and we unquestioningly carried out all the instructions of the Dog, no matter how wonderful and strange they seemed to us.All of the above was obviously done for the sole purpose: to prevent people from bringing some kind of infection to a godforsaken island in the middle of nowhere and causing harm to the fragile natural environment. Although, of course, by and large, what is on the island can be called nature with a big stretch. As I imagined earlier, there is nothing else alive there except grass, crabs and birds. Oh yes! There were also two gray field mice that came from out of nowhere.
By the way, I already knew the call sign of the expedition, but it had not yet been disclosed in order to avoid the work of illegal immigrants (air pirates) on the eve of our landing on the island.
An account for exchanging E-mail messages, sending expedition hardware logs and photographs via satellite was received. The SAT phone tests were successful. The email address and number of this kit were now also known and naturally kept secret and not disclosed.
April 19, 2002 (Kosovo-Austria-Germany).
At the appointed hour I arrive at the airport in Slatina, which is about 15 km from Pristina. An outpost of the Russian peacekeeping contingent in Kosovo. The Russian flag is visible from afar. When approaching the airport terminal, we are met by our guys from the Airborne Forces. Their distinctive feature is oblique fathoms in the shoulders, heavy armor plates and AK-47. Having passed the checkpoint without any problems, I arrive at the airport terminal. I have a backpack behind me and a bag with a computer and SAT phone in my hands. I pass customs inspection without any complications. I’m flying to Austria. There, after 2 hours I change to another Boeing and by late afternoon I am in Germany.
Frankfurt Airport is amazing in size. The whole city. One of the largest airports not only in Europe, but also in the world. A huge transshipment base with passengers always rushing somewhere.
Chilly. It’s drizzling. I’m settling into one of the many airport hotels. There’s still plenty of time until morning. Now is the time to relax. After drinking a hefty glass of real dark German beer in a cafe, I return to my room and peacefully fall asleep.
April 20, 2002 (Germany – USA).
Early morning. At the appointed time, at the agreed place, I meet with Hrane and part of the team at Frankfurt airport.
Greetings and introducing myself to the guys. (YU1AU) Milo, (YU1DX) Srecko, (S56A) Marijan, old friends (YT1AD) Hrane, and (Z32ZM) Mome are here. The guys just flew in from Belgrade via Budapest.In the States, we should be joined by other expedition members (ZS6MG) Vlado, (RZ3AA) Roman, (RA3AUU) Igor, (N6TQS) Doug, (KW6DA) Dave, USFW officer Doug Forsell and photographer Jordan Naydenov, who later received his first call sign in Amateur radio license exam time at Los Angeles Airport. Meanwhile, another member of the expedition (LY3NUM), Alexander, flew from Europe via Japan, who unfortunately did not receive an American visa and was forced to fly a different route. A total of 14 people, including me (YU8/9X0A-RW3AH).
At the customs terminal there was a huge queue of passengers in several lines. There is a procedure for a thorough inspection of the luggage and the departing passengers themselves. They take away my Gerber knife-pliers, and, it seems, forever, as well as a canister of gas, which we are entitled to in Kosovo according to the state for safety. They check the Lap-Top and SATphone for the presence of plasticite with some large hand-held scanner. They make you take off your shoes and carefully check your shoes for the same explosives. After September 11, 2001, security became more cautious and picky. Vigilance turning into paranoia.
April 20-21, 2002 (somewhere between heaven and earth).
The plane is packed to the brim with passengers. A non-stop flight from Europe to the West Coast of the United States lasts more than 10 hours. We fly over England, Greenland, Canada. Under the wing, the picturesque green colors of the forests continually change to the blue tones of the seas, smoothly turning into the snow-white colors of the eternal snows of the Arctic Ocean. Time flies quickly at the thought that there are still more than 40 hours of flight time left. During the entire flight I try to find a comfortable position in a narrow seat. From time to time my back hurts, and there is no way to straighten up. Sitting nearby are peacefully snoring Igor (RA3AUU) and concentrated Srecko (YU1DX), constantly writing something in a notebook.
Gradually, a huge space unfolds below us, reminiscent of a desert with characteristic red colors. It looks like we’re flying over Arizona or Colorado. Their famous canyon must be somewhere nearby. Washington, part of Oregon. Finally California. Judging by the weather it should be hot. No clouds, clear. All the details of the landscape are clearly visible below.
I turn on the portable VHF station to see if I can hear anything. On 2m and 70cm I hear conversations of many HAMs from various parts of several states. VHF frequency grids are noticeably different from our European ones. Having scanned the frequencies, I turn off the station without even trying to go on the air with the fraction “/AM”. Forbidden.
The city of Los Angeles is located on the Pacific coast. In general, a very large city, the outlines of whose borders I could not clearly determine. A lot of one-story buildings, among which stick out tall skyscrapers sparkling in the sun and many highways and interchanges, similar to a cobweb that envelops the city.
The time difference makes itself felt. It’s already evening in Europe, but here everything is just beginning. We crawl out of the plane tired and sleepy.
April 21, 2002 (Los Angeles USA).
Los Angeles Airport is shaped like a horseshoe. Stretching over several tens of kilometers, it is not inferior in size to Frankfurt Airport. Is it just that there is no narrow-gauge railway connecting the terminals with each other? Everything is civil. Luxurious limousines of huge sizes, luxurious private transport, trailers. The surrounding area is clean. Everything is the same as in Alaska, where I visited almost 11 years ago. Nothing changed. All the same McDonald’s and other paraphernalia typical of America. After formalities with the immigration service, we move to another airport terminal. From here in about 8 hours we fly to Fiji – Gateway to the Pacific. The New Zealand Airlines counter is still empty and uninhabited. The long awaited meeting with the rest of the team. The expedition is almost fully staffed. The Americans, members of the expedition, by prior agreement and at the mutual desire of the others, give us an exam to obtain an American amateur radio license, each time reminding us that it was necessary to study the material and seriously prepare in advance. At first I didn’t have any plans in this regard, but after Roman (RZ3AA) suggested trying, I still took the risk. Moreover, there was nothing to lose anyway. Why not? Among the expedition participants on the American side, almost all had the right to take such exams, the corresponding certificate and the necessary papers for such an organization. Since 1991, I already had a valid American call sign (WL7AP), issued in Alaska.I only needed to upgrade my license a little. I intended to get the highest category – Extra class license. Ultimately I managed to do it. Everyone who took the exams also passed the test. Will (K6ND), who, unfortunately, was unable to participate in the expedition for a number of reasons, came to see him off, accepted all the completed documents and promised to send them to the ARRL (American Amateur Radio League) for further processing.
By the evening of the same day, part of the team boarded the Boeing and flew from Los Angeles to Fiji. Igor (RA3AUU) and Roman (RZ3AA) took off a little later on a different plane.
April 21, 2002 (Somewhere between sky and water).
We’re flying. The course is taken further to the South.
New Zealand Airlines. The flight duration is more than 13 hours across the entire Pacific Ocean. We fly all evening and all night. In the area of the Hawaiian Islands, about a quarter of the way to Fiji, it begins to shake terribly. “We are driving” as if on a cobblestone street. Severe turbulence haunts and lasts approximately 4 hours. It seems that the plane is about to start flapping its wings. After a while, it seems that these wings will soon fall off, and there will be nothing left to flap. I catch myself thinking that all is well that ends well.
The plane is a quarter full and there are free seats where you can sit freely. Sleepy flight attendants scurry along the aisles every now and then. After some time, we successfully land at the international airport of Nadi in Fiji.
Here they are – the gateway to Oceania. We are almost at the foot of Pacifica. I get off the plane and am enveloped by a warm and humid wave of air. Your glasses immediately fog up and your clothes become damp. Steam room. No, more like a sauna. Around you are the voices and melodies of unfamiliar birds. There is a lot of all sorts of strange vegetation and an abundance of insects. They are very at ease here. Warm and damp.
The population of Fiji speaks their own language, which is the only one they understand; they know Hindi and, at the same time, English. After all, this is a former English colony. The traffic on the streets is also English, i.e. right-hand drive, which was quite unusual for me at first.
In addition to the indigenous Polynesians, there are many people from India, China and Pakistan. The approximate ratio is 50 to 50. Small shops and eateries typical of Indians, vaguely reminiscent of cafes, are everywhere.Chinese restaurants. Fiji has its own currency. Money with a portrait of the English Queen Elizabeth II. Among foreign currencies, preference is given to the Australian dollar, less so to the American one. They have not yet heard about the new European currency “EUro”.
It’s soon morning. It’s not clear what day, though. Everything got mixed up because we crossed two date lines. Once over England, and the second over the Pacific Ocean. The body generally stopped responding to such sudden changes in time. Stress. The vigor comes from somewhere, accompanied by insomnia.
I think it was April 23, 2002. (already Fiji).
We go through customs. We are greeted by sleepy local guys in strange attire. In white skirts and slippers on bare feet. This is the official uniform of customs and police officers in Fiji. In addition, all civil servants in Fiji wear approximately the same attire. It’s kind of like a tuxedo on bare feet. We go through customs inspection without any problems, when suddenly it turns out that Alexander (LY3NUM), who arrived a little less than a day ago before us, still remains in the transit hall and is not able to pass through the customs checkpoint. Due to the fact that Fiji has a visa regime only with China and Lithuania, local authorities intend to send him back to his homeland. Sasha went to distant lands with full confidence that there would definitely be no problems with the border guards in Fiji, and did not apply for an entry visa. Khranya urgently tries to get through to someone and by the morning of the same day everything is decided in our favor. Alex is free and among us.
It’s getting light quickly. Dispersing in the corner of the airport terminal, we notice that two figures are approaching us, these are Igor and Roman, who arrived after us. They say that they flew normally, there wasn’t even any shaking. There are a lot of things around us mixed with equipment. We take with us the most basic things – new Japanese ICOM “IC-756PROII” transceivers, Bulgarian “ACOM-1000” amplifiers and some antennas. All the main equipment that remained from Hrane’s last expedition to Conway Reef (3D2CI) is already on the ship under the poetic name “Princess-II”.
Now the main task is to get to another part of the island in Suva and spend a day there. During this time, you must obtain individual amateur radio licenses (3D2). Next, take a small twin-engine airplane to the islands of Tuvalu (T2). The rest of the team, according to the preliminary plan, leaves for the ship and goes from Fiji to Tuvalu for about 3 days. During this time, we must activate “T2” on amateur air, while waiting for the ship, which will then go to the island. Baker.
I think it was April 24, 2002. (still Fiji).
In the morning, the main part of the team goes to the ship. We, having flown from one end to the other in 45 minutes, find ourselves at the tiny local airport in Suva. We are greeted by a tropical downpour that lasts for several hours. We are trying to fly to Tuvalu on the same day. But those who are not familiar with local customs and morals understand that this will not be possible on the first visit, although tickets are booked for specific dates and places. The head of the airport says that the plane is leaving overcrowded and there are no more seats for us. Thus, we silently see off our flight in complete bewilderment. The next one will probably only be in the morning of the next day, or in two days. Realizing the hopelessness of the situation, we go to the city, where, having settled into a hotel, we rent a minibus and go in search of the Ministry of Communications to obtain permits, at the same time not forgetting to refresh ourselves along the way at a local Chinese restaurant. After a long search for an office, we finally find the building where their local HIE is located. We find one of the officials there. Hrane, with his characteristic ease, solves all the problems that arise along the way, and in about an hour each of us becomes the proud owner of an amateur radio license for the Fiji Islands for a period of 15 years. I receive the call sign (3D2AF) – the 4th active call sign. Unfortunately, it is not possible to work from the hotel. There is too little time to deploy equipment and antennas, because the flight is scheduled for early morning the next day. We decide that we will work on the air from Fiji on the way back.
Like April 25, 2002. (Fiji. Tuvalu).In the morning everyone gathers in the hotel lobby on the first floor. We take a Toyota minibus to the local airport, from where we intend to fly to Tuvalu. In order to ensure that there are no disruptions to our flight this time, Hrane seeks a rendezvous with the airport manager, and after about an hour we see them as two inseparable friends. Both exchange compliments and wish each other success in all matters. And this time Hrane coped with the problem brilliantly, although he had to be pretty nervous. While they were waiting for Hrana, Roman was surprised to discover that there was no beer on sale at the airport. Probably Prohibition, he notes depressingly.
If we had not been able to fly this time, we were ready to purchase a separate flight specifically for our expedition.
The beauty of adventures is that many unexpected moments appear, not only positive ones. Fortunately, everything worked out well, and now, under the wings of a light motor aircraft made in Brazil, a beautiful panorama of the ocean opens up. We are flying. The flight takes a little over 2.5 hours. The Polynesian steward, meanwhile, offers us soft drinks and distributes cold snacks. Besides us, there are about 10 people on the plane and they all seem to be local Tuvalians.
Oceania. islands Tuvalu. Funafuti. (short information)
Funafuti is the name of the capital of the state of Tuvalu and the atoll of the same name. The closest atoll to Funafuti is Nukufetau. The population is mainly Polynesian.
A state with a constitutional monarchy, located on several atolls. One of the largest in the form of a huge spit forms a kind of reef (Funafuti) about 15 kilometers long, in the middle of the lagoon, where it is relatively shallow and not so stormy. The poor people live mainly on what nature provides. Of course this is fish and everything related to the ocean. The population is about 10,000 people. There is a cottage industry related to coconut and palm leaf, the products of which are exported to Fiji. They sell all sorts of crafts in the form of luxurious beads made from small shells very cheaply for the wild tourists who are often found in these places – extreme sports enthusiasts like us. The recent pride of Tuvalu is a separate domain “TV” on the Internet, which provided a stable income to the state treasury, but was subsequently sold for next to nothing to Canadian entrepreneurs. It has its own currency, and even a hefty coin – 1 Tuvalian dollar with the appearance of a huge turtle on it. The Australian dollar is the preferred foreign currency, although the US dollar is also readily accepted. Haven’t heard of EUro yet. It has its own bank, army and prison, local television, which works only on Sundays, and local radio. In general, as it should be for any small or large state.
Recently, Tuvalu has become famous because, according to scientists, in about 25 years it will cease to exist on world maps at all.Due to global warming (the greenhouse effect), the islands will completely go under water. The level of the world’s seas is steadily rising. These words were confirmed by the director of the Tuvalu meteorological service, Hilia Vavave, whom I knew through correspondence via E-mail 3 years ago. Then I was invited to work at their weather station as a weather service engineer. But, due to the fact that I had already signed a Contract to work in a peacekeeping mission in Kosovo, I had to regretfully refuse this tempting invitation.
By the way, after arriving in Tuvalu, I visited the weather service, and Hiliya was pleasantly surprised to see me on the threshold of her office, which is located on the opposite side of the runway at Funafuti airport.
Distance from Funafuti (Tuvalu) to Baker Island (USA) – 1170 km 559.6 m.
The distance from Funafuti (Tuvalu) to Fiji (Suva) is 1069 km 79.1 m.
The distance from Moscow (Russia) to Funafuti (Tuvalu) is 15281 km 254.2 m.
Here it is – OCEANIA! Tuvalu!
I get off the plane. The first sensation: incredible humidity and heat. The combination of these two factors had to survive until the evening, when it became a little easier. It seems that during my recent stay in Africa it was much easier. Still, it was not so humid there, although the temperature was about the same. Sweat drips down like a hail. Having put all the equipment in a micro-truck, we go to a local 2-story hotel – the pride of the state. Igor and I got one room for two on the first floor. Roma and Jordan are next door. The inside of the room is cool and cozy. Everything is strict and nothing superfluous. A large ceiling fan, and most importantly – AIR CONDITIONER! First of all, I place and turn on the SAT phone and computer. Outside, behind the balcony, I install an antenna that looks at the zenith. I turn on the GPS, it shows our exact coordinates – 08 S 31’18.2” and 179 E 11’37.7”. I check my email through Inmarsat and receive the first unpleasant news from my colleagues in Kosovo. There was an earthquake there during the day. There is minor damage and several deaths in the city of Jilan.
Khrané goes in search of a pipe – a 6-meter mast for the antenna, and Igor goes to look for a local government representative, no less than the Minister of Communications of Tuvalu, to issue official licenses and receive call signs.
It so happened that we arrived on the weekend. Another religious holiday was celebrated on the island. It turned out that each inhabited island of the state has its own holidays, but they are celebrated together with colorful dances, special sonorous and melodic songs that can only be heard in Oceania.It turns out that there are quite a few working days on the islands. Not life, but a solid weekend. The majority of the female population prefers bright outfits and wreaths woven from local plants. Oddly enough, I noticed such wreaths on men as well. Beads made from small shells and various home-made perfumes with sharp, sweet smells. All this gave a special, unique flavor to the inhabitants of distant islands.
After some time, the Minister and his deputy, accompanied by Igor (RA3AUU), arrive at our hotel, and at the same time Hrane arrives with a pipe for the antenna. Everyone gathers in the open restaurant of the hotel on the ocean shore. Slow “diplomatic” negotiations begin. First of all, we apologize for disturbing you on a holiday and for looking unpresentable. Next, Hrane explains who we are and why here and at the end he turns to the Minister with a request for help in allocating call signs for each of us. After some time, all problems are solved. Igor goes to the office with the deputy minister, where all the necessary documents are completed. This was my 5th valid amateur radio license with a call sign (T2X), which I chose myself.
Towards evening, we assemble a 3-element “A3S” Cushcraft beam for three ranges and install it on the roof of the hotel, having previously agreed on all issues with the hotel administration. This turned out to be nothing new for them. They had met radio amateurs before. Before us, at different times, the Germans, Japanese and Spaniards visited us and did something similar to their roof. Later we hang a dipole at 40m. We go live around midnight.A kind of training before the expedition. The “ACOM-1000” amplifier and the brand new “IC-756PRO-II” transceiver are installed in the Khran room, on the 2nd floor. The transceiver is not impressive and leaves a mixed and uncertain feeling. It takes some time to get used to its specific DSP sound and the location of the controls. Range 20 meters, SSB. Gradually, the call of Europeans begins, smoothly transitioning from a friendly chorus of calling stations into a creepy Pile-up. This continues for 3 days in a row. Replacing each other, we tirelessly work on the air, noting at the same time the peculiar passage on the HF bands. During the day, as in Africa, it is almost empty, only a few live 10m. In the evening and throughout the night there is excellent long-range coverage from 10 to 20m bands. 40m was used for communication with the ship that was heading to Tuvalu, as well as for QSO with neighbors – VK/ZL and a large army of JA and W6-W7. The proximity of the equator was felt not only in the open air, but also on short waves.
On the second day of our stay at T2, together with Jordan, our photographer, we decided to get acquainted with the local attractions. Having rented mopeds for 5 Tuvalian dollars for the whole day, we drove the entire length and breadth of the island. Although, across it is loudly said. The widest place in Funafuti is no more than 1.5 km, and the narrowest is only 20 meters. During the research, I did not notice how I burned in the sun, the radiation of which in this area is quite harsh. It didn’t hurt much, but the next day my arms and legs were covered in a small rash of watery blisters. Burn. Later, the use of various kinds of protective ointments improved the situation a little.
Noon. Don’t forget to take a dip in the coastal waters of the island. The water is very salty and warm, or rather hot, which doesn’t make it any easier. It seems that the sweat continues to flow in a stream and in the water. No cooling, just the opposite. It becomes disgusting and there is no desire to get into the water anymore.
While traveling around the island, I noticed how miserable and poor the islanders live. Most of the buildings are miserable huts made of palm leaves. Instead of furniture, the flooring was made of a dense material similar to cardboard and not a single chair or table. The beds are made of material vaguely reminiscent of burlap. About 30% of the island’s population lives this way. As local residents explained to me, they are afraid to build anything serious not because of abject poverty, but because of periodic hurricanes that sweep away everything in their path.
It’s a holiday in Tuvalu. That evening I accidentally witnessed a beautiful show.From afar you can hear the sounds of drums and a special multi-voiced singing, which I noticed. This can only be found in Oceania. Many listeners and spectators gathered around a one-story room without glass, which looked more like a decent barracks. Most of them were sitting or lying on the grass. Local children were running around carefree. Many came to celebrate the holiday with their families, and some even came from the surrounding islands. There was a special atmosphere and high spirits all around. Inside the room, flooded with bright light, in addition to numerous spectators, there were two groups of people dressed in brightly colored clothes. The men, stripped to the waist, wore wreaths, long reed skirts and were barefoot. Women wear colorful sundresses, wreaths and long skirts consisting of many colorful patches. Each group consisted of approximately 25 people. Performing in front of each other, they seemed to compete in the skills of dancing and singing. First one group performed, three songs accompanied by dance, then they were replaced by another. And so each 10 times. Behind each team, about 15 musicians sat in a semicircle. Among the musicians, the leader clearly stood out – a loud-voiced drummer. From time to time, girls appeared in the room and distributed tender coconut milk in porcelain bowls to the fans present. They sprayed the competitors and each other with some special perfume with a sweetish smell, perhaps from grass or flowers. There was joy all around. The smell of Oceania was in the air.
On the third day of our stay in Tuvalu, at approximately noon, a ship from Fiji arrived in Funafuti with the rest of the expedition members. Having collected the antennas and equipment, we arrived at the pier to meet Princess-II. The heat was unbearable. There was nowhere to hide. A military patrol ship from the neighboring island nation of Kiribati was moored nearby. Local sailors, seeing my sun-burnt skin, took pity on me and invited me to their captain’s bridge, where they gave me water and hid me from direct sunlight. Meanwhile, everyone was waiting for the local border service and customs officers to appear, who arrived about half an hour later. After a formal check of documents and the vessel, we boarded the ship and left the waters of Tuvalu. Ahead of us was an extraordinary meeting with the kingdom of “El Niño”, which is not on the world map, but which loudly declares its existence every 5 years, bringing terrible destruction, catastrophes and disasters to the world. Ahead was the equator and Baker Island.
April 26, 2002 (On the way to Baker Island. T2X/mm)
At a maximum speed of 8.5 knots, our boat stubbornly moves towards its cherished goal. Now no one can stop us from reaching our desired point. The onboard GPS counts down mile by mile. The entire team has dispersed to their cabins and is resting. Some are in the central cabin watching videos on TV while lazily drinking Australian beer. Besides us, the participants of the expedition, the ship naturally has its own crew, to whom we owe the delivery of our expedition.The main burden before the landing and during work from the island fell on these guys.
Gordon. Our Captain. A gray-haired Fijian who has walked thousands of miles across the expanses of the Pacific Ocean. He knows his profession thoroughly. A very experienced captain, especially revered among sailors. A leisurely, balanced and flexible person.
Siga. 1 officer – the Captain’s right hand. A middle-aged Fijian who does all the work during the ship’s Captain’s rest period and is his active assistant. Part-time experienced navigator.
Sekove. Mechanical engineer. He controls the heart of the ship – the engine. The engine was made by BMW and was considered one of the most reliable. During the entire trip I never let you down. There were never any crashes. Sekove did his job accurately and knew all the ship’s equipment inside and out.
Apenisa. 1st engineer A young Fijian who skillfully fulfilled the role of Sekove’s assistant and cook at the same time. There were never any problems with food and delicacies on the ship. Perhaps the most important person on the ship, after the Captain, of course.
Daniele. Just a boss. Everything that was connected with economic activities on the ship was his. Blankets, sheets and pillows. Anchors, barrels, hooks. And so on. In short, all the little things. He was responsible for everything. There was always cleanliness and order around.
Grant. He is a small New Zealander with a slight build. Fishing enthusiast. Constantly goes to sea and hunts sharks. This is his main entertainment. Such trips are obviously associated with a chronic lack of adrenaline in the blood. On the ship and on Baker he was an assistant to the main crew. Loader, transport worker, etc. A kind and sympathetic person.
Glenn.I know the guys who went with Hrane on the last expedition to Conway Reef. An avid shark hunter and experienced fisherman. Businessman. Fiji has its own business. Manufacturer. It produces T-shirts in its own small factory. Having established production, he now devotes most of his time to his favorite hobby. On the ship and on Baker he was also an assistant to the main crew. Strong build and tall with a specific English with a New Zealand dialect. Sometimes I didn’t understand his English at all. Good-natured sea wolf. I’ve been at sea for decades. Reliable person.
April 27, 2002 (Closer and closer. T2X/mm)
Longitudinal and lateral rolling. Everyone crawled into their cabins. Some are green. I don’t want to do anything. The main desire is to have some kind of solid foundation under your feet. The ship’s engine taps steadily. I go up to the captain’s cabin. Meanwhile, the ship is moving at maximum speed towards the island, and below it is an abyss of water. The captain says that the ocean is very deep in this place. About 4km. There is not a single living soul around, no fish, no sharks. One water to the horizon and endless waves.
I look around and notice that in addition to the navigation equipment, an amateur transceiver “FT-100D” is installed on the captain’s bridge. This is the Mome radio (Z32ZM). He’s a big fan of the 50 MHz band. The device is tuned to the frequency of radio beacons and is in constant standby mode in case of sporadic passage, which is a frequent occurrence in these latitudes. On the deck of the ship there is a 2-element antenna for the same range. Among the ship’s radio, I notice a channel HF transceiver from the SGC company, attached to the ceiling of the cabin. I ask the captain for permission to try radio on the amateur bands and get the go-ahead. It’s midnight overboard. The passage should be good at 20k. I tune the device to 14.195 kHz. USB and go on air under my Tuvaluan call sign (T2X/mm). Power is only 100 watts. Someone from W6 immediately responded, I made a short radio connection and there were already several dozen stations on the frequency, constantly interrupting each other. Suddenly, Arkady (UA4CC) appears unexpectedly with a decent signal level. Short message exchange.I report that Baker is approximately 30 hours away. The team is fine. Everything goes according to plan. It’s a little stormy and stuffy. The wave is only 2 points. Speed 8.5 knots. The equator is coming soon. A few minutes later the call of many Russians begins. Among the signals, (UA3AGW) Dima from Moscow stands out. Everyone can be heard very well. Correspondents note that my signal is loud in Europe, although the transmitter is only 100 Watts, and the antenna is a pin. I make about 150 QSOs and apologize to all the other correspondents who were never able to reach me. I feel very dizzy and want to take a horizontal position. Seasickness is no joke. Somehow I get to the cabin and pass out.
“Sea seek” tablets do not help. They make you feel depressed and want to sleep even more. Bumpy. Some of us, as green as me, continue to age in our cabins. The crew is fine, they are no strangers. Nothing works on Storage either. His vestibular system is fine. This is understandable; this is not the first time that Hrane has walked the seas and oceans. Each of us reacts differently to seasickness. Most unlucky was Vlado (ZS6MG), who lay motionless and barely alive. It seems that in 6 days in the ocean I lost about 10 kg. weight. I just want to drink and sleep, sleep, sleep…. Thoughts are confused in my head. I fall asleep again. I dream about some kind of garbage.
K1B. The first day
April 28, 2002 (Noon. BAKER Island on the horizon).
From the very morning, Doug Forsell has part of our team scrubbing and washing the antenna masts and antennas themselves with fresh water, which we don’t have much of. Armed with brushes, the people obediently carry out all his instructions. There is a rustling sound all over the deck. The meeting with the island should be at a height and in complete sterility.
01:19 GMT – Friendly “HURRAY”! We cross the equator. The onboard GPS records coordinates 0 – 00’000″ N, 174 – 34’451″ W. Speed - 8.7 knots. Baker’s is just a stone’s throw away. In about 2-3 hours we will see the shores of the island. Everyone is in tense anticipation of the event.
04:02 GMT – my GPS shows coordinates:
N000. 10’51”, W174. 47’35”. Before us is the goal of our long journey – Baker Island! Everyone poured out onto the deck, even those who were completely unable to get up from seasickness. We drop anchor approximately 200 meters from the shore. Emergency. Preparations for the landing began.
Historical reference
Baker Island. US territory. An uninhabited atoll in the northern part of the Central Pacific (Oceania). 4.8 km in diameter. About halfway between the Hawaiian Islands and Australia. It was opened in 1857. In 1935, there was an attempt to populate this island, but World War 2 began, and the atoll was made a transshipment base for the American Air Force. A runway was built and diamond antennas were installed. The personnel on the island was no more than 15 people. After the war, a small lighthouse (day beacon) was installed on the island. The island is currently protected by the USFWS (American Federal Wildlife Service).The coastal zone consists of corals. The island is covered with grass. The inhabitants of the island are seabirds and crabs. The climate is equatorial. Constant wind, accompanied by short-term tropical showers. The ocean depth in the area of the island is about 2 km. Coastal zone from 30 to 100m.
IOTA-OC089.
Zone WAZ 31,
Zone ITU 61.
Light house Beacon: BAK – 001.
WW Grid – AJ10rf
Distance from Baker Island (USA) to Fiji (Suva) – 2220 km 855.5 m.
The distance from Baker Island (USA) to Moscow (Russia) is 14931 km 268.4 m.
– 04:45 GMT
– First landing. In rubber boat Doug Forsell, Hrane, Glenn, Sekove. Going out for reconnaissance. As we approached the coastline of the island, a problem arose. High waves make it impossible to get close, and Doug is the first to rush into the water, naively believing that it is already shallow and the boat can be pulled to the shore. Completely goes under water. Meanwhile, his comrades help him stay on the water. Everything is going more or less well. Hrane inspects part of the island and proposes to place 3 separate camps (bases), the distance between which should be at least 150 meters. Meanwhile, the second landing is underway. Roman and Igor with the equipment land on shore and help the others drag their things and equipment away from the water, higher from the coastline. The emergency lasts about 3 hours. Hrané decides that each base will have a different national composition. A separate base with a Russian composition of participants, a separate Yugoslavs, and a separate Americans. This was obviously done so that the expedition also had a competitive spirit within itself. Gradually, part of the island is overgrown with antennas and awnings.
Dog (N6TQS), a small old man who looks more like Santa Claus with his thick gray beard, meanwhile sets up his tent separately near the old lighthouse and installs all the necessary equipment himself. His responsibilities include RTTY-PSK31. A great expert in this field, upon his arrival from the expedition in the States, he is going to organize something like a seminar among radio amateurs, where he would like to tell them how the work with digital modes of communication was carried out on Baker. This is not his first time in Oceania. Participant of several famous expeditions to VP9, VP5, FO0AAA.
About 100 meters away is Dave (KW4DA), who will back up and assist Dog (N6TQS) in his work with digital modes, as well as focus on CW.
He brought with him several LAP-TOP computers and new ICOM “IC-756pro-II”.
Somewhere in the same corner was Doug Forsell, a representative of the USFWS. Having modestly set up his tent, he immediately began counting the number of birds on the island and completely forgot about our existence for a while In the middle of the coastline, between 2 bases, there was a Yugoslav camp. Work there was in full swing. Everyone was trying to be the first to go live. Something like who will get ahead of whom. We installed antennas for 3 bands “A3S”, 5 element at 50 MHz, GP 40 and 80 meters. We started installing the equipment.
In our camp, work on installing the tent and equipment did not stop until the night. Everyone is pretty tired. Twilight fell imperceptibly, and the enormous Moon appeared in the sky in full radiance. On a full moon you could easily read a book.Realizing that a multi-million army of radio amateurs from all over the planet is waiting for us on the air, we decide to continue working on installing equipment and antennas. At about 1 am local time, I, Igor, Alexander and Roman decide to install the 3-element “A3S” Cushcraft antenna, without postponing this procedure until the next morning. So, in the light of the moon, we assemble and install an antenna on a 6-meter pipe. Inspired by the success of the event, we connect 3 kW. generator, amplifier “ACOM-1000” and draw lots on matches to see who gets on the air first. Luck smiles on me first. Not without excitement, I turn on ICOM and tune in to the DX frequency of 14195 kHz. I’m adjusting the amplifier. The ether is clean and transparent. The long passage is felt in his special breath. There’s a short pause and, instead of the English “CQ,” I say into the microphone: “Everyone, K1B is here.” Immediately someone from Tambov responds, apparently having been waiting for us on this frequency for a long time. The correspondent was slightly stunned by such a challenge, moreover, in Russian. A few more minutes, and QSOs with Moscow, Novosibirsk, Stavropol appear in the hardware log. I switch to English and the unimaginable begins… Naturally, I turn on Split from 5 to 10 kHz. up. The headphones are full of white noise. The whole planet is calling us. I imagined what is going on in DXClusters now. The notification about the start of work of “K1B” took place instantly and simultaneously on all continents.
I’m trying to cope with the situation, although it’s difficult for me. The barrage of calling stations is growing every second. Everyone wants to have a cherished QSO with us. Gradually Split is stretched by another 5 kHz. up, from 14200 to 215.The IC-756pro-II transceiver with built-in DSP seems to no longer cope with the situation. You have to be more sophisticated. Reduce the volume, turn on the attenuator. Only under such conditions is it possible to “pull out” calling stations from the white noise and maintain a tempo of 5 to 8 QSOs per minute. The load continues to grow. Exhausted, but happy, after a while I pass the microphone to Igor and announce that I am crawling away to rest. At the same time, Roman is installing the second set of equipment. Sasha also can’t stand it and instantly falls asleep in the open air.
K1B. Second day
April 29, 2002 (O.Baker. The crab sleeps during the day.)
Crabs, which average the size of a tennis ball, are everywhere. They resemble large snails, always carrying a shell on their back. The only difference is the large size of the tentacles and the red color. Towards evening, when the heat subsides, they crawl out of their invisible shelters and fill almost the entire space on the coastline of the island. We let them crawl a little under our awning. When they get to the work sites and begin to scan the operators’ legs with their long mustaches in order to bite off a piece of skin, our patience comes to an end and we begin to methodically scatter them on different sides of the campsite. This continued the entire time we were on the island. Igor (RA3AUU) was overzealous, once again scattering crabs, he accidentally shook one of them out of his home – shells. The throw failed. The crab looked pitiful. His relatives, without thinking twice, pounce on the defenseless and eat him alive. On Baker, cannibalism among crawling creatures is in full swing.
At the equator it dawns quickly. It’s as if someone with an invisible hand turns on a switch and a bright streak of dawn appears on the horizon. The wind constantly blows from the North. A strong low tide exposed the corals on the shore, and in the waters one could see all sorts of strange marine life. The shore is strewn with shells, which were once the shelter and home of the last generation of crabs and fragments of coral. Wind and water do their job, gradually transforming it all into fine sand and pebbles.
Roman (RZ3AA) is on watch.An endless Pile-up shakes the airwaves. In addition to us, the “YU” and “W” bases are on air. In the first two days there were about 20,000 QSOs. On average, “K1B” makes approximately 10,000 QSOs per day. The average rate is 6-7 QSOs per minute from one workstation. By E-mail via Inmarsat we receive the first messages and impressions from our Pilot stations. In general, there are no comments. They correct our work and point out our weak points. They provide optimal time corrections for the HF bands and collect information from radio amateurs who want to make a QSO with us on various bands. The Japanese invite us to 29 FM. We respond through the pilots that the time has not yet come for this. Perhaps this will happen towards the end of the expedition, when the main Pile-up on other bands subsides and it becomes a little easier.
Closer to noon, everything around becomes hot and it becomes unbearable to be under the awning. It seems that the temperature underneath is higher than outside. In addition, the difference in time zones is affecting us more and more and we all look like sleepy flies. The methodical “Five – Nine” sounds from the lips of Igor and Roman like a prayer, under which your eyes stick together and you want to sleep. The upper part of the tent we hastily installed at night keeps falling on our heads from gusts of wind and we have to adjust it every time. We ask the guys from the ship to use the local VHF connection to help us during our next visit to the “Russian” camp to improve the situation and put up a normal tent with a larger area and make it more reliable and ventilated.
Out of the corner of my eye I notice an easily recognizable shark fin sticking out of the water near the shore, about 20 meters from us.After waving to us, a decent-sized shark quickly disappears into the ocean waters. Any desire to cool off in the water disappears, but only temporarily, because soon it becomes very hot and you want to get wet, one way or another.
Every 3 hours I run to the generator, which is installed 50 meters from my workplace, to fill it with fuel. Time flies by and evening comes.
The huge sky takes on a fantastic dark blue color with a crimson backlight. Every sunset looks different and unique. The camera captures magnificent landscapes that are imprinted in my memory for a long time. The restless cry of birds and the sound of the surf are soothing. Having settled comfortably in a small tent, I quickly fall asleep.
K1B. Day three
April 30, 2002 (O. Baker. Fighting sleep and 160m.)
One of the main problems on the expedition is the fight against sleep. Before dawn, Igor woke me up and reminded me that it was time for my shift. Having barely risen, I see how Roma continues to methodically rake Europe at 20 meters. A little later, he must hand over the microphone to Alex (LY3NUM), who is spending the night on the ship. Lucky. He will come to us only for breakfast. I continue the relay taken from Igor SSB – 15 meters, where passage to Europe is also open. “K1B” signals sound continuously on the bands. From time to time Hrane comes to us and brings us good news. The count has already reached 30,000 QSOs. All 4 camps are live. The equipment works reliably, there are no failures observed. Doc (N6TQS) and Dave (KW4DA) continue to process RTTY and PSK31, replacing each other on air. Mome (Z32ZM) is one of the best CW operators on the expedition – operating on 20 meters from Dave’s shack (KW4DA). Yugoslav camp – at 40, 15, 30 meters, simultaneously scanning for passage of the 6 meter range.
Simultaneously with the tireless work on the air, work is underway at each base to install additional antennas.The guys from the ship, Glen and Grant, are helping. They straighten the awnings, which had been fairly battered by strong winds overnight. Additional fuel, missing tools and daily meals for breakfast and dinner are supplied.
Igor and Roman decide today or tomorrow to install an additional antenna on 160m. In addition, the broadband 3-element “MA5B” from Cushcraft for WARC and HF bands, which Khrana brought from the “YU” base, lies in a semi-assembled state and is waiting in the wings. All this requires additional time and manpower. At this stage there is no time to even think about it. It is necessary to keep the tempo on air.
Towards evening, temperature and pressure drop noticeably. This doesn’t bode well for us. Around midnight we feel the first and very close breath of El Niño. The wind picks up and the ocean begins to rage. A storm begins, accompanied by rain. The tent is shaking. Every now and then we have to drive the fastenings into the ground with a massive sledgehammer, so that the awning does not tear off and be carried into the ocean along with us. Some stakes easily fly out of the sand, and it is not possible to secure them. I read obvious fear in the eyes of Igor, who works nearby at the 2nd workplace. I’m not in the best mood either. Every 3 minutes you have to take a time out and stop the Pile-up on air in order to adjust the awning. My biggest fear is that a thunderstorm might break out. I think there is no need to explain, what could happen then? The drumbeat, knocked out by the rain on the awning, and the squall of the wind drowns out everything around, even your own voice. You have to shout into the microphone. The noise is incredible.I shout into the air that a hurricane has begun and once again I pause. I can imagine what it’s like now on the ship where Roman and Alexander are vacationing. If the ship is torn from its anchor, then we will have to take Robinson into account again, and this is the last thing we want.
Fortunately, after about 2 hours everything calms down. The worst didn’t happen. Everything around becomes quiet and clear again. The night sky once again cuts through the Milky Way, and billions of stars shine with a uniquely bright and mysterious light. The Southern Cross constellation is clearly visible on the southern side of the sky.
K1B. Day four
May 1, 2002 (Father Baker and the Feast of All Working Masses)
In the first half of the day we install an additional antenna “MA5B”. Sasha (LY3NUM) brings his FT-900 from the ship. Thus, we are activating the 3rd workplace in our “Russian” camp. Sasha works on WARC bands. The other two places are at 20 and 10 meters. By evening we plan to install a 160 and 80 m pin – the same one that the Americans gave Igor on the expedition. This pin worked on VP8S, A5, VK0, FO0 and other DX expeditions. Has proven itself very well.
The air temperature at noon, as usual, rises to 45 degrees. Our awning is illuminated by the sun and being under it is pure torture. We ask Glen to modernize it and put at least one more on top. The guys from the ship from time to time bring drinking water in 10-liter plastic canisters and additional food.
Dog Forsel continues to count the number of birds and in the evening sails on a ship with Jordan to the neighboring island of Howland. They will stay there for about 2 days and return back to Baker.
I’m trying to send the first expedition logs via Inmarsat. Data transfer rate no more than 9600 BD. The size of the log file is such that the transfer takes approximately 30 minutes of pure time.If you consider that one minute costs about 3 US dollars, you can imagine how much it could cost to transfer the entire log by the end of the expedition. Nevertheless, I upload, realizing how many people are waiting for QSO confirmation with us. The first to go is the “K1B” log for RTTY and PSK31 QSO. At Hrana’s request, I am also sending our first photo depicting the lighthouse and antennas of the expedition. In the photo I print the call sign “K1B” in large font. The picture should soon be posted on the Internet on the main WEB page of the expedition.
We receive a message via E-mail from our WEB master that in a few hours the expedition site was visited by more than 15,000 people. The server can hardly cope with such an influx of visitors. The guest book is replenished with enthusiastic reviews from radio amateurs from all over the world about the expedition and our work. This inspires us even more and gives us strength for further work.
Only now I remembered that somewhere, very far away, they must be celebrating May 1st. International Day of Solidarity of the Working People.
K1B. Day five
May 2, 2002 (Baker Island. Loud sounds of the Pacific Ocean)
At night I often catch strange sounds coming from somewhere from the ocean. Have you ever heard him sing? A completely unusual phenomenon and sensation. It seems that a female choir is quietly singing under the splashes of the surf and in time with the blowing wind, and this tune vaguely resembles something we heard in Tuvalu during the holiday. I can’t help but remember the sirens from Greek mythology.
It seems that there is no calm here at all. Constant wind from the North and decent waves.During the next low tide, at noon, Roma finds a suitable shallow lagoon among the corals near the shore and plops down into it. We have been observing him in this state of acidification for quite a long time. Roma feels pleasure and is like a hippopotamus, experiencing complete harmony with the world around him. This can be seen from afar with the naked eye. I would like to join his company, but then who will work on air?
I can’t say that the water is refreshing, but it still becomes a little lighter than outside. Only Romina’s head in a Panama hat is visible from the puddle. Small colorful fish and long, fierce-looking moray eels scurry around every now and then.
Taking advantage of the free time I have, I decide to explore the island with its attractions. Local time is around 11 p.m. I move at a leisurely pace along the coastline, moving away from our camp. Every now and then empty glass bottles, brought by the ocean from nowhere, come across your feet. Naively believing that there is a note in each bottle, I carefully examine them, trying not to miss a single one. Along the way I meet a flock of wild seabirds. Unfrightened, they let me come almost close. Their scream vaguely resembles a hoarse police whistle, only with lower tones. Remembering Dog Forsell’s prohibitions, I no longer risk communicating with wildlife, and I continue on my way. The heat is oppressive. Probably 50 degrees. Underfoot are small pebbles and snow-white shells. Or rather, what is left of them due to the influence of three elements – sun, water and wind. In the distance I see pillars 40 meters high sticking out of the ground. Former masts of rhombic antennas installed by the Americans since the Second World War. Upon closer inspection, I see that the masts are well made. They will last at least another 200 years. The grass growing throughout the island hides many nesting places for birds. There are chicks and bird eggs here and there. You need to be very careful not to crush them. Thousands of birds are constantly hovering over the island, high in the sky.It’s good that civilization never reached this God-forsaken place. Having walked about a quarter of the way, I feel that I made a big mistake by going alone around the island, moreover, in the very heat. In the distance, a haze that stretches along the coastline is clearly visible. This is the evaporation of water. The temperature is clearly around fifty dollars. Cursing everything in the world, I barely get to the camp where Mome (Z32ZM) and Dave (KW4DA) are located. Having poured half a liter of fresh water into myself, catching my breath, I gradually came to my senses. On the way to the middle camp, where the Yugoslavs are located, I find an impressively sized wooden stand, faded in the sun. It is written in English and Japanese that this territory is part of the United States of America, on which there is a nature reserve protected by US laws. Next to the stand I notice an old, rusty, small cannon on a stone pedestal. I take a couple of memorable photographs and return to our camp.
In the evening we invite the guys from the Yugoslav camp, free from work on the air, to lift the pole to 160m. Everything happens quickly, smoothly and smoothly. Towards the end, in the moonlight, I help Igor and Roman dissolve and orient the long radials of the antenna towards Europe. Sasha (LY3NUM) is actively raking Pile-up at 18 MHz at this time. A little later, Igor becomes more active at the lower levels. The west coast of the states goes to 160m. just great. 80m. everything is fine too. Ether is simply a miracle. Clean and transparent. The passage is excellent. Japan, the States, the entire Far East – at a glance. Let’s see how the antenna on Sunrise performs in the direction of Europe.Having heard that we are already working on 160 and 80, the Europeans invite us to skeds and are on duty in the DX sections of these ranges. Without promising anything, we say that we will try to be at sunrise at 160 especially for them. Marjan (S56A) and Milo (YU1AU) from the Yugoslav camp “K1B” will also be working on 80m at this time. towards Europe.
Igor keeps a good pace at 160m. From time to time Mikhail (UA0MF) comes up with a crowbar signal and, slowing down the pace, asks how he can be heard this time and what about QSOs with him on other bands? Asks for confirmation. This infuriates not only Igor, but also everyone else. Once again we remind Misha that everything is OK, there is no reason to worry. By the way, he worked with us wherever possible.
K1B. Day six
May 3, 2002 (Baker Island. First emergency)
I constantly want to sleep. Damp and chilly. I am completely unaccustomed to resting in the open air, especially at night, especially in shorts and a thin T-shirt. You’re constantly freezing. There is nothing to hide with. In a hurry, I left my sleeping bag on the ship, and every time I forget to pick it up from there. There is actually a towel that helps a little. At night the temperature drops noticeably and a cool wind blows. It becomes so uncomfortable that you dream of leaving here as quickly as possible. And somewhere far away at home, a warm bed and a large blanket with a down pillow are waiting for you. Mentally being there, you want to fall asleep and dream that someone on Baker Island is working with you on the air, and there are no more worries and worries.
In the morning, the first emergency. The worst thing that can happen. The diesel generator fails. The reason is unknown. All agreements on skeds with Europe at the grassroots are broken down. The “Russian” base “K1B” is not on the air until noon. We are losing precious time and QSOs. We are trying to solve the problem ourselves, but to no avail. Igor, Roman and I are dragging a heavy generator to the Yugoslav camp. There, Vlado (ZS6MG), Srechko (YU1DX) and Milo (YU1AU) begin to alternately cast spells on him. After some time, a breakdown is found in the electrical circuit of the generator. The zener diodes have failed. They are trying to replace it with what they found in the spare parts package, but the generator does not want to work. Closer to lunch, Dave (KW4DA) appears at the camp, bringing with him other zener diodes and quickly fixing the problems. The generator came to life again. It is not without difficulty that we return the generator to its original place and revive the “Russian” base.We are back in full force on the air.
K1B. Day seven
May 4, 2002 (O.Baker and QRP)
The work of the expedition does not stop for a minute. The ranks of calling stations have already noticeably thinned out. It’s the turn of QRPp and other radio amateurs who are interested in radio communications without antennas, using equivalent antennas, pieces of wire, or simply using nails instead of antennas.
Victor (UA3AKO) managed to work with us from Moscow without an antenna, using a coaxial cable braid, which he was very surprised by.
In reality, this was a serious test for us. After all, at the beginning of the expedition we experienced a barrage of Big Guns, and now we had to pull the calling stations out almost from under the noise. Sometimes it seemed that among the QRP calling us there were ghost stations. Before that, they sounded unrealistic and weak on the air. But we tried not to deprive anyone of our attention and worked as best we could, and as far as the passage allowed.
By the way, according to all the forecasts and predictions during the expedition, the passage in this part of the planet should have been quite bad. Fortunately, such predictions did not come true. And the 10 meter range generally looked fantastic at times. During the day, when the passage was only on USA and JA, suddenly calling stations from EA6 and CT appeared from somewhere along a long path. At this time it was deep night in Europe.
As one of my friends said, radio communication in general is a shamanic and unpredictable thing.
Range 6 meters. In the evening, Srechko (YU1DX) and Milo (YU1AU) on a five-element beam installed at the “Yugoslav” base, they managed to conduct more than 800 QSOs with the Japanese. Sporadic continued until about midnight. We were guided by the lighthouses.With particular consistency at 6m. the lighthouse “KH6HI” was heard from the Hawaiian Islands. I conclude that passage, like radio communication, is no less shamanic.
K1B. Day eight
May 5, 2002 (Baker Island and the remains of the Mir station)
Apart from the ubiquitous crabs, crawling out in unprecedented numbers in the evenings, the most annoying thing was the fine sand. As I said earlier, it was not even sand, but small remains of corals and shells. They were everywhere. In equipment, on the body, in hair, food, things. This was very annoying and annoying throughout all the days of our stay on the island. It was extremely uncomfortable to relax in such conditions. In addition, our three-element antenna “A3S” was chosen by birds. Having sat down, about seven of them in a row, each weighing at least a kilogram, they happily swung on the antenna elements. The “ham” did not suspect that at that moment our “ASOM” RA was pumping at least 800 watts there. Ultimately, the reflector element was deployed to such an extent that the antenna parameters began to noticeably differ from the original ones for the worse.
In the evening, two cute gray field mice visited our base. No one understood where they came from on this island. Perhaps the generation of those mice that people accidentally brought to the island in the 30s.
In addition to ordinary crabs, in the area of our base we occasionally began to encounter sea crabs. Smaller in size, flat, light translucent color. Very nimble and the most arrogant of the entire family of crustaceans. They could sneak up close and lightly pinch your leg. I had to take a stick and chase them around the camp. From the outside it looked funny and a little strange.
It is unclear where hordes of small midges appeared, microscopic herds of which took up residence in the sand under the work tables.If we had lived on the island for at least another month, we would have encountered more of Baker’s “rich” variety of fauna.
I would never have guessed that those pieces of stainless steel, reminiscent of part of the skin of some kind of aircraft, and lying on the coastal part of the island are fragments of the legendary Russian space station “Mir”. They often caught the eye because they sparkled brightly in the rays of the Sun. Here and there, every now and then I had to trip over them. It was in this part of the Pacific Ocean that the station was flooded. If you remember, this happened on March 23, 2001, i.e. a year before the start of our expedition.
– 08 hours 07 minutes 36 seconds the last impulse was given to flood the Russian orbital station “Mir”, which was flying over North Africa. The station braking process coincided with the calculated one.
– The engines worked for 20 minutes and at 8.27 Moscow time they turned off over the Dzhusaly tracking station (Kazakhstan), located next to the Baikonur cosmodrome (“Mir” was at an altitude of 158 km).
– At 8.44 Moscow time the station entered the dense layers of the atmosphere at an altitude of 100 km.
– At 8.52 Moscow time its destruction began (at an altitude of 80 km).
– At 9.00 Moscow time, unburned fragments of the Mir fell in a given area of the Pacific Ocean. The coordinates of the center of the dispersion ellipse of unburned elements of the station’s structure are 44.22 degrees south latitude, 160 degrees west longitude. The dispersion of elements along the longitudinal axis of the ellipse is plus or minus 1.5 thousand km, along the lateral axis of the ellipse – plus or minus 100 km.
Several pieces of the station, which began to burn and disintegrate as it entered the atmosphere, flew over the Fiji islands.People saw five or six pieces of the station that flew over them in about 10-15 seconds, leaving a trail of smoke in the sky, after which several explosions occurred. Eyewitnesses to this spectacle said: “They flew over our heads. It was one of those feelings that you only experience once in your life.” I heard about the same thing from local residents of Tuvalu, who confirmed what the Fijians had said earlier.
Grant brought several small pieces of debris back to the ship. As it turned out later, in New Zealand they were of commercial value. For each such fragment, collectors could shell out a large sum of money. Business can be made on anything, even on the history of Russian cosmonautics.
K1B. Day nine
May 6, 2002 (Fr. Baker. QSY, QRM and other trifles)
Everything is as usual. Table. Chair. Transceiver. We got so involved in work that we no longer felt time. What day of the week? What time is it now? It’s not that important anymore. We can afford to work on FM 29 MHz. After the Pile-up subsided, it became much easier to work on the HF. On FM the Japanese and Americans stand like a wall. Instead of calling stations there is white noise. The panoramic display of the “IC-756pro-II” shows a large, several kilohertz, “hump” of calling stations. The tempo is a little lower than in SSB or CW, but the type of modulation is so captivating that you forget about the existence of other bands.
The day’s playthrough isn’t great. 20ka is almost closed. At 15 meters there are small signals JA and W7/W6. That leaves 12 and 10m, where you can still do some work. Approximately the same passage was observed at one time in the central part of Africa. Equator. It’s nothing you can do. Ranges will open later in the evening. After approximately 17:00 local time until 11:00 am the next day.
Sasha (LY3NUM) on 12m. SSB endlessly, like a clockwork one, repeats: “CQ CQ this is Killo One Bravo, Killo One Bravo.” Nobody is calling.
People were so fed up with “K1B” that it reached the point of absurdity. Somehow, during the next transition from 20m. on the 15 meter band we switch to our DX frequency – 21.295 kHz. and we begin to give a general call, when suddenly we unexpectedly receive a response from somewhere in the USA – “K1B. PLEASE QSY the frequency is busy! Which roughly means in Russian – “K1B” leave the frequency, it’s busy, we’re communicating here, and you’re disturbing us. Woops… Confusion and a moment’s pause.Not understanding what is happening, we try to explain who we are and why, and that we have been working here for a week. And generally speaking…! Could you give us this frequency?
Before dinner, Hrane comes to the base and says that it is necessary to take a timeout and take a photo of everyone together as a souvenir. A few minutes later the whole team is assembled. Against the backdrop of antennas and the flags of the countries participating in the expedition hanging on the mast, we take unforgettable photographs as a keepsake.
At night there was another storm and heavy rain. Thanks to Glen and Grant, who the day before reinforced the awning with additional guys, we survived this nightmare safely.
On the low frequency ranges of GUHOR. Even somehow unusual. Absence of any presence. Unsuccessful CQs do not produce results. We go down to 40m and 20m, where they call something else. Rate 3-4 QSOs per minute. At this time, bases 1 and 2 are operating on 30 and 20 meters CW and SSB. Just for fun, I look at the 10 meter band and hear it near the frequency of 28.495 kHz. the strongest splatter. It seems that none of our people should be working on this range at this time. I tune in to the station’s signal and am surprised to discover that it is Vasily (ER4DX) from Moldova, whose signal reaches an incredible level of 59 + 35dB. By S-meter. Without any effort I call Vasily and receive the same report in response. He is pleasantly surprised by my challenge. His 10m stacks work great. There is no one else on range.
K1B. Day ten
May 7, 2002 (Bye bye O. Baker. It’s time for QRT)
Early morning. The whole team is on their feet. Emergency. Before sunrise, while it is still cool, we begin to urgently wrap up. Throughout the night and early morning I continue to work with Europe on 20m. Hrana comes and says she needs to switch off. I spend the last QSO with the Italian and announce to everyone that the “K1B” expedition is finishing its work. QRT!
The store announces the final result. More than 95 thousand QSOs were made. It’s a pity. After all, another 4-5 hours would have definitely exceeded 100 thousand. Even if it weren’t for this generator, which failed us in the middle of the expedition… But, all the same. There is a world record! In an expedition of this class, no one has ever made so many radio communications.
We roll up the antennas, cables, and pack our things. Dave (KW4DA) and Dog (N6TQS) are the first to be evacuated from the island. Then us.
A boat from the ship approaches the shore, and we are ready to load the equipment. Strong tide. There is a decent wave about 50 meters from the shore. The boat tries to pass this line and immediately finds itself covered with water. Everything floats. We’ve lost something. They search for a long time, but to no avail. It turned out later that part of the much-needed instrument had been drowned. We hastily load equipment and our belongings onto the boat. We wrap it all in a tent in the hope that it can protect against salt water. In the boat there is a transceiver, amplifiers, some antennas, mine and Igor’s bags with LAP-TOP computers and other things. It’s so shallow all around that part of the way we drag the boat, its bottom clinging every now and then to glass-sharp corals, by hand. Even though I’m wearing flip-flops, I still manage to hurt my feet. Yes, it will now take a painfully long time to heal.After walking some distance, we reach a deeper place and Apenisa starts the engine. The boat moves forward slowly but surely. We are approaching a dangerous point. Wave after wave and now we are completely covered by another wave. Everything inside the boat floats. Wet, knee-deep in water, we are trying to cope with the situation and grab the most vulnerable equipment in our hands. But, one way or another, Igor’s computer ends up in salt water. This is the worst thing that can ever happen. Practically, after such a “wash”, you can say goodbye to your computer once and for all. The amplifiers and transceiver are also in the water. My bag with the computer was slightly wet, although it was in my arms. The computer itself was placed inside a special protective shield, so there is a chance that nothing serious happened.
The evacuation lasts about 2-3 hours. By about one o’clock in the afternoon, the coastal part of the island where we were once located remains as clean and pristine as we saw it before our landing on it 10 days ago. Amid all the events of the day, we completely forget to congratulate each other on Radio Day.
Cats scratch at my heart. It’s a pity to part with a dream. The ship weighs anchor and slowly sails away, taking with it everything that was experienced during these unforgettable days. And still. Whatever it was, everything was great. “K1B” is already a thing of the past. This is now history.
– = –
The gentle voice of the flight attendant sounds, reminding you that it is time to fasten your seat belts. We are approaching Frankfurt am Main airport. The air temperature in the city is plus 25 degrees Celsius. Sunny and cloudless.The adventures don’t end, they are just beginning…
– Afterword –
Already in Kosovo, for a long time I will find in my computer bag the fine, ubiquitous sand from Baker Island, reminding me of the unforgettable events of the past days of the K1B DX expedition.
First of all, I would like to thank Khrane YT1AD for organizing the expedition and inviting me. All the guys from our team and those who helped. Thanks to everyone who called and I apologize to those who were unable to make radio contact with us, although I hope these are still a minority. We tried to make everyone happy on air, and I hope that we succeeded.
73 de RW3AH-KL1A-9X0A-3D2AF-T2X-T6X-4O8AA
Fedorov Andrey